On Saturday the 24th of April, Watches & Wonders 2020 digitally unveiled new watches from most of their 30 participating brands, Panerai, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Laurent Ferrier, Cartier, and many more.
Some of the watches featured below are already available in the market but for many, you will have to wait until after the summer to see them in stores. The prices quoted for each watch featured are in Swiss Francs (CHF). For information, today’s CHF exchange rate for USD is 0.97 and for EUROS 1.05.
Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech – Price CHF 16’200
Panerai presents a bold new addition to the Luminor Marina collection with this Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech. Panerai is known for breaking the mold with its innovative materials and this year is no different. The 44 mm case is in a new high-tech composite made from unidirectional mineral fibers produced by the fusion of basalt rock called Panerai FibratechTM. The result is 60% lighter than steel and highly resistant to corrosion. The pattern on each case is unique as it depends on the cutting process. This is the first time that this material has been used in watchmaking, previously only tested in the aerospace industry. The Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech comes with a gradient blue dial and a blue strap made of Panerai SportechTM, a woven textile with a rubber effect. It is powered by the P.9010 in-house caliber with 3 days of power reserve and features 300 meters of water resistance.
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Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune Lunar Meteorite – Price CHF 40’000
The Arceau L’heure de la lune lunar meteorite from Hermès offers a unique vision of the Earth’s satellite with a display of the moon phases in both the southern and northern hemispheres. The white gold case designed in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, the legendary Hermès designer, is still as pertinent today as it was then. The lunar meteorite dial is inlaid with mother of pearl moons. At 12 o’clock, the moon is adorned by a Pegasus horse designed by Dimitri Rybaltchanko and at 6 o’clock a realistic depiction of the lunar surface. The brown lacquered crystal effect dials, one for the time and one for the date, are in motion and turn to reveal the phase of the moon. This magical display of the Arceau L’heure de la lune lunar meteorite is powered by an H1837 manufacture Hermès movement and is limited to 36 pieces.
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide – Price CHF 35’000
The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is the first IWC timepiece featuring a newly developed tide indication. It’s novel nautical functions and 300-meter water resistance makes this nautical watch a perfect fit for any water-loving sailor when on land or at sea. The subdial at 6 o’clock displays the expected times for the next high and low tide. At 12 o’clock the double moon phase indication also provides information about the strength of the tides showing the spring and neap tides. Spring tides, so exceptionally high water, occur at full moon or new moon. The 44.6 mm case is in 18K 5N gold, with a blue dial and a blue rubber strap. The IWC manufacture caliber 82835 with a power reserve of 60 hours is visible through the caseback sapphire glass. All of the new models in the IWC Portugieser collection are available to check out virtually.
Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon – Price CHF 185’000
Laurent Ferrier is well known in the watchmaking world for his classical watches, which are praised for their traditional watchmaking crafts and mechanical excellence. Today he unveils his first sports watch, the Grand Sport Tourbillon. Laurent Ferrier was actually a race car driver in the 1970s and competed in the 24 Hours of Le Mans seven times. His love of sports led him to this new creation. Housed in a 44mm stainless steel case with an integrated stainless steel bracelet – another first for Laurent Ferrier. The opaline dial is a gradient blue that transitions from blue at the center to black at the edges, with both the hands and the indexes in a punchy orange. The Grand Sport Tourbillon is powered by the same LF619.01 caliber that won Laurent Ferrier the “Best Men’s Watch Award” at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie. The movement features a tourbillon and a double balance spring.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar – Price CHF 14’500
For the first time, the watchmakers of the Manufacture de la Vallée de Joux have combined the chronograph with a triple calendar and a moon-phase in the Master Control collection. This new addition to the Master Control collection boasts a brand new in-house movement, Caliber 759, with a power reserve of 65 hours. The Master Control Chronograph Calendar is understated, elegant, and timeless. It will look as good on your wrist today as it will in the years to come. The 40mm steel case has been ever so slightly updated and the silver dial features a balanced layout with easy to read displays on both the triple calendar and the bi-compax chronograph, despite the complexity of the information shown. The Master Control Chronograph Calendar will be available in two versions, steel as shown below and a rose gold version referred to as “Le Grand Rose gold®” by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Strap options include either a Novonappa® calf or an alligator strap.
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus – Price CHF 40’200
The A. Lange Odysseus was first introduced in 2019, heralded as a watch with several firsts for A. Lange & Söhne – the first steel case, the first integrated bracelet, the first screw-down crown, and the first water-resistance of 120 meters. This year the Odysseus family is growing with the addition of two new models featuring a white gold case with either an integrated black rubber strap or a brown leather strap. The 40.5 mm three-part case is combined with a grey dial that is embossed to provide a textured effect, in contrast to the glossy matt surfaces of the main and subdials. The iconic prominent day-of-the-week and date displays are shown in the apertures at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, respectively. The Odysseus is powered by the L155.1 DATOMATIC manufacture caliber developed exclusively for this watch, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. The movement has a maximum power reserve of 50 hours.
Montblanc 1858 MOnopusher Chronograph – Price CHF 4’700 – CHF 5’500
Montblanc has released three new editions in the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph collection, a steel version on a brown leather strap, a steel version with a beads of rice steel bracelet, and a limited edition bronze version. All three come in a 42mm wide and 14.7mm thick case with a solid caseback. Following the Minerva inspired reinterpretation theme, all three have a distinctive sporty vintage vibe with a similarily vintage-looking black and beige dial with superluminova. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph is powered by the MB 25.12 automatic movement with a power reserve of 48 hours, that offers a 30-minute chronograph and running seconds.
For me, the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph limited edition (1858 pieces) in bronze is really a standout piece and will only look better and better over time as the patina evolves.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic – Price CHF 20’800
Baume & Mercier launched the highly successful Clifton Baumatic line in 2018, introducing the first complication bearing the Baumatic designation in 2019. Here is a first look at what is coming this year. What caught our eye was the Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar at a very interesting price. This watch is powered by an in-house self-winding movement, the BAUMATIC BM13 1975 AC2. The functions include what you would expect with a perpetual calendar – hour, minute, seconds, day of the week, month indicator, and a leap year indicator. They have also added a moon phase so this watch really has everything. The 42mm case is in 18k pink gold with an interchangeable black alligator strap if your mood calls for something different.
H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic – Price CHF 39’900
H. Moser knows how to make a splash and this unexpected Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic is no exception. Lots of firsts here – a new line, a new case, a new integrated bracelet, a new movement, a new dial, and new hands. The Streamliner is named after the high-speed trains from the twenties and thirties and embodies their fluid curved lines and beautiful aerodynamics. The 42.3mm cushion case is in stainless steel and the integrated steel bracelet sits perfectly on the wrist thanks to individually articulated links. The dial is in H. Moser’s signature fumée in a new shade of gray and griffé. On the outer ring of the dial there are two white and red tracks, the outer one measures the seconds elapsed and the inner one the minutes. This brings us to the movement – the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic is the first automatic chronograph with a central display to feature a flyback function for the minutes and the seconds. This HMC 902 chronograph caliber was developed by Agenhor and has rewritten all of the rules that have been followed over the past 200 years.
Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillon – Price CHF 58’700-CHF 59’230
Speake-Marin launched the One & Two Openworked Tourbillon collection in 2018. This year they have extended the collection with a 60 Seconds Flying Tourbillon housed in a titanium case. The timepiece is available in two sizes – 38mm and 42mm. The dial is completely open-worked, leaving the wearer free to admire this newly developed tourbillon caliber. The SMA05 caliber is made in-house from start to finish and has a power reserve of 3 days. The flying tourbillon is visible at the 1:30 position with the power reserve indicator directly on its left. Speake-Marin is the only watchmaker who positions its tourbillon there. Both the 38mm and 42mm are limited to 10 pieces each.