Patek Philippe is taking a bold step forward by introducing a new masterpiece to its Aquanaut collection, already known for its “modern casual chic” appeal. This time, it’s a minute repeater, a grand complication that’s a hallmark of Patek Philippe’s know-how. This new addition comes in two dazzling Haute Joaillerie versions, each adorned with a captivating array of multicolored baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds, all set in an intricate “invisible setting.”
The Aquanaut, launched in 1997 and inspired by the iconic Nautilus, has become a cult favorite. Known for its youthful, unique design with a distinctive dial and matching strap, the Aquanaut initially featured essential timekeeping features. However, it has evolved over the years to include more complex complications, like the Travel Time dual time zone and a flyback chronograph.
Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/355R-001
The Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/355R-001 from Patek Philippe is a striking fusion of fine watchmaking, modern style, and exquisite jewelry craftsmanship. This rose gold piece is adorned with 52 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires (3.19 ct), 112 baguette-cut diamonds (7.31 ct), and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.72 ct).
Its distinctive octagonal Aquanaut bezel showcases a dual row of baguette-cut gemstones in an intricate “invisible setting.” In this technique, each stone is precisely cut with lateral grooves and fitted into tiny gold rails, which become invisible once the stone is in place. The outer row is enhanced with diamonds, while the inner row features a gradient of rainbow-colored sapphires, creating a stunning effect. Baguette diamonds also grace the lugs for added brilliance. Only top-quality diamonds and sapphires are used to adhere to the Patek Philippe Seal standards, ensuring a smooth and secure setting.
The dial reflects the gem setting with a graceful geometric pattern. Its center, paved with baguette diamonds, matches the Aquanaut Luce motif, while the hour circle features brilliant-cut diamonds in a “snow setting” for optimal legibility. This is complemented by 12 multicolored sapphire hour markers and luminescent rose gold hands.
The watch includes three straps in durable composite material, each featuring the embossed Aquanaut motif in matte beige, red, and white. Its patented rose gold fold-over clasp, set with baguette-cut diamonds, combines elegance with functionality.
Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001
The Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001 by Patek Philippe is a marvel of craftsmanship, lavishly decorated with 130 baguette-cut diamonds (8.66 ct) adorning the dial and outer bezel row, and 779 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires (45.05 ct) arrayed in a stunning rainbow design along the inner bezel row, case flanks, minute repeater slide-piece, and the rose-gold bracelet.
Emphasizing the watch’s brilliance, Patek Philippe employs the intricate “invisible setting” technique for the dial’s center, both rows of gems on the bezel, the caseband, and the central links and flanks of the bracelet. This meticulous approach demands exceptional skill from the gemologists to ensure a flawless transition of colors in the sapphires.
The dial of the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie is a testament to clarity and readability, a hallmark of all Patek Philippe creations. It features 12 multicolored baguette-cut sapphire hour markers, a circle of baguette-cut diamonds, and hands that are a work of art in themselves: the hour hand is set with three baguette-cut rubies, and the minute hand shines with five baguette-cut blue sapphires. A brilliant-cut diamond enhances the hole in the cannon from which the hands emerge.
Completing this beautiful timepiece is the rose-gold bracelet, equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp. This clasp is meticulously designed for security and ease, featuring four independent catches.
Both new Aquanaut references are powered by the caliber R 27 self-winding movement and chimes the hours, quarters, and minutes with a slide-piece mechanism on its case. Its intricate mechanics, including a 22K gold guilloched mini-rotor, are visible through the sapphire crystal back.
Price & Availability
Because of its limited availability, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001 will be sold exclusively in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, Paris, and London.
- Price Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/355R-001: CHF 830,000
- Price Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001: CHF 2,500,000
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