The Polaris collection has always occupied a specific and deliberate position within Jaeger-LeCoultre’s catalog: sporting in character, precise in execution, and rooted in a lineage that goes back to the Memovox Polaris of 1968, a watch whose unconventional proportions and underwater functionality made it one of the more distinctive dive watches of its era. With the new 40mm Polaris Date, the Manufacture in Le Sentier brings that heritage forward in a form designed to fit a broader range of wrists without surrendering anything essential about what the collection stands for. The case diameter has also come down, the profile has slimmed to 12.9mm.
The design language stays consistent with what collectors have come to expect. The glass-box crystal sits above a dial built around concentric circles and trapezoid indexes, with skeletonized hands and Arabic numerals coated in Super-LumiNova for reliable legibility across conditions. Getting the dial there is not a quick process: seven layers of colored lacquer and 35 layers of translucent lacquer go down in sequence, followed by hand polishing, producing the deep double gradient in dark blue that gives the dial its characteristic sense of depth. A second off-center crown manages the internal rotating bezel, a direct reference to the elapsed-time countdown functions that defined the original Polaris generation.
Inside, the automatic Calibre 899 was designed, produced and assembled entirely within the Manufacture, in keeping with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s long-standing commitment to vertical integration. The movement offers a 70-hour power reserve, a practical consideration for a watch built around an active lifestyle. Water resistance is rated to 20 bar. Presented on a blue canvas strap with a double-folding buckle, the Polaris Date 40mm makes the case that reducing a watch’s footprint and expanding its appeal do not have to mean any compromise in what goes into it.